[MILAN, IT.] The steel industry is often considered an indicator of economic progress, which ties well with both Ermenegildo Zenga‘s net income up 4% to €34 million for 2018 and the site’s designated location for the runway show at the Unione plant. It took quite the journey to arrive in the Lombard municipality, yet, the sights were remarkable and refreshing to see an abandoned steel-factory repurposed in the name of fashion. Another indicator of progress is how Alessandro Sartori, the artistic director, implemented a new brand-mission to be more sustainable in fabric usage. Which encouraged the hashtag #UseTheExisting as a movement and call-to-action for other prominent industry giants to comport the same ethos.
A good portion of the fabrics displayed were upcycled wools and nylons incorporated by the textile division. Besides the obvious steel-monument that provided shelter for us whilst it rained, the next thing that stood-out was the black runway made from recycled gravel. Prior to the show it was visually satisfying to watch the production team rake the walkway to be smooth and even. The black gravel helped showcase the variety of colours found in an iridescent oil-spill. The collection glistened with shiny pale-pastel hues and that of earthy rusty colours. Congratulations to Sartori for how he captured the effortless pairing of loose-fitted garments with tailored suits. The looks presented had the perfect balance of both casual and formal, an ideal equilibrium world that majority of men are in search of.
For a spring reveal, the leather baseball-like sport jersey was a major added shock value to the collection along with the other two leather garment tops. The idea to match the same fabric print of the pant with the shirt or blouson jacket was a step forward in a positive expression for masculinity.