[MANHATTAN, NY.] For those that grew up in New York City a field trip to the Intrepid Sea, Air & Space Museum was a part of everyones childhood. However for myself and majority of the guest in attendance it was a new experience and gave space to feel a bit like a tourist exploring the massive military equipment on display as a remarkable backdrop for Who Decides War’s fourth collection. The past few seasons the creative visionaries Tela D’Amore and Everard Best, or the online world knows him as Ev Bravado, showed in Paris and allowed themselves a break for Autumn 21 to give way to receive revelation on where the brand was headed. In a way this Spring Summer 22 edition was a realignment after experimenting in previous seasons plus actively listening to consumers feedback, taking a break for a season then getting back to delivering garments worth admiring up close.
In understanding the presentation, let’s do a bit of background history that is important to the creatives and represents who they are as visionaries today. During the World War II events, D’Amore’s grandfather served as a First Lieutenant and that’s where the military DNA is rooted. Where as Bravado grew up attending church with his jaunty Father as a minister and get this, a tailor.
All of that connects into the brands identity and in this runway show the emphasis of church and state of combat uniforms influencing streetwear launched this brand to higher heights. A signature item that pulled everyones eyes onto Bravado aesthetic was the deconstructed and layered denim but this season the garments were adorned with church-like glass stained patches. For example the embroidery had recognisable Civil Rights activists that carried a buzz after the show and needlework that created emotions of bright florals or colourful violent skeletons. A slight touch of autumn outerwear was present in this collection with a great display of knitwear, especially the deconstructed sweater vests that had the American flag in front with the brands name.
The designers of this brand need to host a masterclass on embellishment or detailing garments. A lot of thought, Black representation, and most importantly appliqué techniques were the reason for a successful runway presentation this season.