[MILAN, IT.] The invitation for the Les Hommes‘ Spring 2020 preview were sent out as a little 7 inch vinyl record that had a cover-sleeve that resembled the famous Piet Mondrain‘s colour-blocking painting. It carried the label’s name and directly below it were four distinct letters that established the mood for the collection: R-A-V-E. However, that was only a third of the seasons theme, the other two focal points were on the Academy of Antwerp and of course, the national sport of cycling. Each of these iconic elements were infused in a collection that talked about “contemporary elegant ravers” with an “ACID” touch.
Shown at the Palazzo del Senatore in the iconic column filled courtyard that has been around as early as 1608. The garments presented were pulled directly out of my subconscious-mind, without any bullshit, I’ve played around with these ideas hypothetically and apparently left it to Bart Vandebosch and Tom Notte to actually execute a dream collection. The organza shirts with printed florals in blue or solid fluorescent colours were the crucial items that caused me to salivate. In menswear, it’s the simple things that get me aroused.
Based on past seasons, the sinister feel was the expected route. Yet, the label reminisced on personal experiences from the 90’s that for some reason brought out colourful elements and proved to be a fresh outlook. Not only because of the bright hues, the loose-fitting silhouettes that were combined with tailored garments confirmed that athleisure trends needed to be adopted. For example, a double-breasted suit jacket layered over an orange windbreaker that included orange shorts and dress shoes gave you the idea behind the athleisure movement.